Share information about reloading the 22 TCM cartridge
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By Grayowl
#4234
DurangoKid wrote:I made a few .22 TCM cases early on. Could not find my .224 reamer and was unable to complete the project correctly. The .22 TCM brass was very available and the factory loads are selling for $25 dollars a box. No need for the extra work making the brass.


I've been using a foster .220 reamer in my Hornady trimmer so I can trim to length and ream at the same time. I also run my completed rounds back through the sizing die. I was wondering if the .224 reamer would provide enough neck tension? I bought 100 TCM brass to compare. I made 1600 cases from .223 and 5.56 brass and have another 1000 .223 cases waiting to make into TCM. Have better luck with the cases that I made than with TCM. Load 11 gn. of 296 with no problems - cases show no problems. Use a socket in an electric screwdriver and drop the cases into a 5 gallon bucket (see "deal to anneal" for ideas. Will sort by head stamp to see which work best.

reload: TCM. .38 Special, .357 Mag, 357 Sig, .40 S&W, .45ACP, .44 Mag, .30 M1 carbine and (45-70 for 600 yard comp.)
Retired military and govt.agency
Primary carry is 4" S&W 686 with 2 extra 7 shot clips or a Para 7-45 with 2 extra 8 shot mags - thinking of adding a 5" Sig-Sauer Tacops 357 Sig.
NRA Life, pistol and reloading instructor
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By tinkertoy92
#4593 Figured I'd share some updates on how I now make my own brass- its time consuming but not very difficult and I personally enjoy sitting behind the bench anyhow- so step one: cut off brass at 1.070"
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step 2: run through 5.56 sizer die- prevents 22tcm die from having the added stress of resizing the base and punches the primer
step 3: tumble-important at this stage even if your 5.56 brass is already tumbled at beginning b/c the inside of the case is cleaned better now that it is a straight wall case- this is important for the next step.
step 4:anneal by holding base with pliers, dipping in molten lead for 3 seconds, tapping loose lead off of case and then throwing in bucket of ice water- use beeswax or some sort of flux- pictured is a round that I did not use beeswax on and did not tumble as recommended in step 3, yes those are w/d sandpaper marks... what can I say... crawl phase guys
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step 4- run through sizer die and trim to length
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By Grayowl
#5641 [quote="chefreiss1"]Annealing or softening your cases after the first firing the old fashion way which is quick and easy and will add at least 6 or more reloadings. Maybe more if you anneal again after the fourth or fifth firing. It is easy for those of you that may not know how. Just get a metal pan, such as a cake pan, the larger the pan means the more cases at a time that you can do. Follow the instructions below.

Annealing in a pan is NOT the best way. Google "Meacham Tool and Hardware " or "A Deal to Anneal" You don't have to buy one of their annealing tools - a 3/8" socket in an electric screwdriver works just as good. Check it out.
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By tnron11
#5672 i have seen all the making tcm case videos . and read all topics on case forming . only it never worked doing it that way . i am using horandy dies in a redding boss press . i did every thing as said and showed . even anelling . lost most cases . so i just cut cases from some lake city 05 5.56 brass , lubed with lee case lube . run them in to my sizing die . come out perfect . then run them back trough with the expander but back in place . trimmed to 1.025 . removed mil crimp . plunk tested .
only i forgot to anneal the cases . loaded them to test with a 35 gr vmax and 10.2 gr h110 . now up to 11.3 gr . going up 10th of a grain each reload . so i got 11 reloads on the cases with out annealing them . strange thing is the same cases only annealed got 6 reloads and then the necks started splitting . and NO the cases were not mixed up . all boxs are marked when formed .